Louis Vuitton celebrates stoic Paris in menswear show
As the Guardian reports, given recent events in Paris, it would have been odd to get to this stage of the five-day menswear event with no designer paying tribute to the victims of the November 2015 attacks. So it was with due respect that Louis Vuitton’s British creative director, Kim Jones, shifted the spirit of his autumn/winter 2016 collection, already a visual tribute to a century of Paris fashion, to reflect the current mood.
Talking backstage, Jones explained that his interest was “in modern Paris – I wanted to give it fresh air. Then that awful thing happened and, well, we wanted to celebrate it even more”.
The stoic atmosphere, which has been palpable in the city these last few days, was matched in the collection which moved neatly from Art Deco Paris, riffing on dandyism which, of course, has its roots in Paris, through to modern Parisian elegance.
The Parisian motifs were subtle to start. Silk trench coats belted with pelts were paired with utilitarian narrow-fit trousers, a sharp move away from the wide-legged casualwear which has so far dominated the catwalks at Walter Van Beirendork and Carven.
Mid-century Paris was celebrated by way of patterned shearling bomber jackets, before things jumped a decade forward into the 60s with zip-up polonecks and cashmere jackets fused with silk. Jones made a point of playing with shine and matte, sandwiching utilitarian pieces with graphic prints.
Photo: the guardian